Дирт ралли 2 0 настройка руля thrustmaster ferrari
DiRT Rally is a great game to play with a force feedback wheel. The game transmits a lot of information about what the car is doing through the wheel. Given the difficulty of controlling a rally car, you want the best control possible through the wheel.
Unfortunately, the default force feedback settings in Dirt Rally don't work very well for the Thrustmaster TMX and T150 (they are essentially the same wheel). Different wheels have very different characteristics for the force feedback abilities as they use completely different mechanisms.
Using the default force feedback settings, the Thrustmaster TMX and T150 will feel too heavy and hard to turn quickly, when it should be relatively easy. Thankfully, DiRT Rally allows you to change the force feedback settings on a very granular basis.
After doing a lot of research and my own testing, I found the best settings for the Thrustmaster TMX and T150. These really made a big impact on my enjoyment of the game.
Thrustmaster Control Panel Settings
Set the rotation to its maximum.
Under Gain Settings:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Overall Strength of all forces | 100% |
| Constant | 100% |
| Periodic | 100% |
| Spring | 100% |
| Damper | 0% |
| Auto-Center | by the game |
Damper applies a constant dampening effect, making the wheel feel heavy. On lower-end wheels, there is plenty of natural dampening in the wheel mechanism itself. (Dampening is used on higher-end wheels to add weight and solve oscillation problems.) I turn this off in the driver because many games don't have a way to control it in-game.
Spring constantly pulls the wheel back to the center, but, unlike Damper, it is completely controlled by the game, just like the Constant and Periodic forces. Most games don't use the Spring force at all (their native physics simulations do this already), so it actually doesn't matter what the value is set to in the Control Panel.
I leave the Spring force on in the Control Panel, making the in-game settings the only factor controlling the force feedback. This makes the settings consistent across all games and prevents confusion in the few games that use it when a FFB setting seems to have no effect.
DiRT Rally Settings
In Options & Extras > Controls > Advanced Wheel Settings:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Steering Deadzone | 0% |
| Steering Saturation | 100% |
| Steering Linearity | -4 - 0 |
| Throttle Deadzone | 0% |
| Throttle Saturation | 100% |
| Brake Deadzone | 0% |
| Brake Saturation | 100% |
| Soft Lock | On |
| Center Steering | On |
Setting Steering Linearity to a negative value makes the steering more sensitive when the wheel is centered. This can be useful for older cars that have a larger degree of rotation, if it feels like you are unable to turn the wheel fast enough around corners. For modern style cars, Steering Linearity should be set at 0, or the wheel will be over sensitive when centered and harder to control.
In Options & Extras > Controls > Vibration & Feedback:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration & Feedback | On |
| Self Aligning Torque | 45% |
| Wheel Friction | 0% |
| Tire Friction | 0% |
| Suspension | 60% |
| Tire Slip | 45% |
| Collision | 100% |
| Soft Lock | 150% |
| Steering Center Force | 100% |
Self Aligning Torque is the main strength of the force feedback.
Wheel Friction and Tire Friction are Damper forces. In different ways, they both add resistance to the wheel only if you have the Damper force enabled in the Thrustmaster Control Panel. Wheel Friction is a mostly constant force that simply makes the wheel heavier. Tire Friction is mostly felt based on the speed of the car. When the car is still, you will feel the heaviness of the car when you try to turn the wheel. I don't like Damper forces on these lower end wheels, so I turn these off.
Suspension controls the vibration felt from the road surface.
Tire Slip is a canned effect that vibrates the wheel whenever the rear wheels lose traction. I have this set quite low, but you may want to turn it off completely as it is not a realistic effect most of the time, but does give you a little more information about what the car is doing.
Collision controls the vibration when you hit a rock or something on the side of the road.
Soft Lock is the force you feel when trying to turn the wheel past the real-world steering angle.
Steering Centre Force is only ever used when you start a race or reset the car to re-center the wheel. It has no effect when you are driving.
Conclusion
Before making these changes, I found the game fun, but often annoyingly hard to control. After applying these settings, I was no longer fighting with the force feedback and I finally had complete control over the car. This makes the game so much more enjoyable to play because you can actually control the car in difficult situations. I highly recommend you try these settings.
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
Question or Comment?
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DiRT Rally 2.0, the rally car simulator from Codemasters, is best played with a force feedback wheel. The game transmits a lot of information about what the car is doing through the force feedback of the wheel. Given the difficulty of controlling a rally car, you want to get as much information from the wheel as possible without fighting the force feedback.
The default force feedback settings in DiRT Rally 2.0 aren't the greatest for the Thrustmaster TX and T300 (they are essentially the same wheel). While not terrible or unplayable, they make the wheel rather heavy and unresponsive. You don't feel a lot of the track surface detail, which can be quite useful information in a rally game.
Thankfully, we can fix these issues easily with the right in-game settings, giving a much better feel for the car and the road. In this guide, we will first look at the settings you need to set in the Thrustmaster Control Panel, if playing on a PC. Then we will look at the in-game settings to improve the force feedback.
Thrustmaster Control Panel Settings
DiRT Rally 2.0 has a Soft Lock feature, so it will automatically set the proper steering angle for each car in the game. Set the maximum steering angle in the Thrustmaster Control Panel and calibrate the wheel in-game.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Rotation | 900° (TX) 1080° (T300) |
| Overall Strength of all forces | 75% |
| Constant | 100% |
| Periodic | 100% |
| Spring | 100% |
| Damper | 100% |
| Auto-Center | by the game |
Spring is not used by DiRT Rally 2.0, so the value doesn't actually matter. Some games require Spring to be on for their force feedback to work, so I keep it at 100% as a general rule.
Damper, on the other hand, is used by DiRT Rally 2.0. Since it's commonly recommended to turn Damper off, make sure it's on.
DiRT Rally 2.0 Settings
In Options & Extras > Input > Connected Devices:
It is very important to calibrate your wheel by highlighting the wheel and choosing Device Options. Without calibration, the steering angle won't necessarily be set correctly and your wheel rotation won't match the in-game wheel.
In Options & Extras > Input > Connected Devices > Thrustmaster TX / T300 > Advanced Settings:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Steering Linearity | -4 - 0 |
| Steering Deadzone | 0 |
| Steering Saturation | 100 |
| Soft Lock | On |
Setting Steering Linearity to a negative value makes the steering more sensitive when the wheel is centered. This can be useful for older cars that have a larger degree of rotation, if it feels like you are unable to turn the wheel fast enough around corners. For modern style cars, Steering Linearity should be set to 0, or the wheel will be over sensitive when centered and harder to control.
In Options & Extras > Input > Connected Devices > Thrustmaster TX / T300 > Vibration & Feedback:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration & Feedback | On |
| Self Aligning Torque | 85 |
| Wheel Friction | 0 |
| Tire Friction | 70 |
| Suspension | 105 |
| Collision | 100 |
| Soft Lock | 150 |
| Steering Centre Force Enabled | On |
| Steering Centre Force | 100 |
Self Aligning Torque is the main force you feel. Setting this too high makes the wheel much too heavy. You shouldn't be fighting for control of the wheel very much in a rally car.
Wheel Friction is a mostly constant damper force that simply makes the wheel heavier, not adding any useful information. I turn this off completely.
Tire Friction is a damper force that is based on the tire data. Functionally, this will make the wheel harder to turn at certain times, more prominently on tarmac.
Suspension controls the vibrations you feel in the wheel from the road surface. Rough gravel surface will vibrate nearly constantly, while smoother pavement won't vibrate at all. This can be turned up even higher, depending on how you have the wheel mounted. A lighter weight desk may start shaking a bit at higher levels.
Collision controls the vibration when you hit a rock or something on the side of the road.
Soft Lock is the force you feel when trying to turn the wheel past the real-world steering angle.
Steering Centre Force is only ever used when you start a race or reset the car to re-center the wheel. It has no effect when you are driving.
Conclusion
DiRT Rally 2.0 remains one of my favorite racing games. Playing it with one of these wheels feels great, especially with the settings dialed in properly. This makes the game so much more enjoyable to play because you can really control the car in difficult situations.
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
Question or Comment?
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DiRT Rally 2.0, the rally car simulator from Codemasters, is best played with a force feedback wheel. The game transmits a lot of information about what the car is doing through the force feedback of the wheel. Given the difficulty of controlling a rally car, you want to get as much information from the wheel as possible without fighting the force feedback.
Unfortunately, the default force feedback settings in DiRT Rally 2.0 don't work very well for the Thrustmaster TMX and T150 (they are essentially the same wheel). The force feedback is set too strong and it just feels like you are fighting to turn the wheel on every single corner, when it should be relatively easy. These are great entry-level wheels for their price, but they don't have the responsiveness of more expensive, higher end wheels, leading to these kind of problems.
With that in mind, it is important to tune the force feedback settings in the game to your particular wheel. After doing a lot of research and my own testing, I found the best settings for the Thrustmaster TMX and T150. These really made a big impact on my enjoyment of the game.
Thrustmaster Control Panel Settings
Set the rotation to its maximum.
Under Gain Settings:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Overall Strength of all forces | 100% |
| Constant | 100% |
| Periodic | 100% |
| Spring | 100% |
| Damper | 0% |
| Auto-Center | by the game |
Damper applies a constant dampening effect, making the wheel feel heavy. On lower-end wheels, there is plenty of natural dampening in the wheel mechanism itself. (Dampening is used on higher-end wheels to add weight and solve oscillation problems.) I turn this off in the driver because many games don't have a way to control it in-game.
Spring constantly pulls the wheel back to the center, but, unlike Damper, it is completely controlled by the game, just like the Constant and Periodic forces. Most games don't use the Spring force at all (their native physics simulations do this already), so it actually doesn't matter what the value is set to in the Control Panel.
I leave the Spring force on in the Control Panel, making the in-game settings the only factor controlling the force feedback. This makes the settings consistent across all games and prevents confusion in the few games that use it when a FFB setting seems to have no effect.
DiRT Rally 2.0 Settings
In Options & Extras > Input > Connected Devices:
It is very important to calibrate your wheel by highlighting the wheel and choosing Device Options. Without calibration, the steering angle won't be set correctly and the wheel will feel very strange.
In Options & Extras > Input > Connected Devices > Thrustmaster TMX / T150 > Advanced Settings:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Steering Linearity | -4 - 0 |
| Steering Deadzone | 0 |
| Steering Saturation | 100 |
| Soft Lock | On |
Setting Steering Linearity to a negative value makes the steering more sensitive when the wheel is centered. This can be useful for older cars that have a larger degree of rotation, if it feels like you are unable to turn the wheel fast enough around corners. For modern style cars, Steering Linearity should be set to 0, or the wheel will be over sensitive when centered and harder to control.
In Options & Extras > Input > Connected Devices > Thrustmaster TMX / T150 > Vibration & Feedback:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration & Feedback | On |
| Self Aligning Torque | 45 |
| Wheel Friction | 0 |
| Tire Friction | 0 |
| Suspension | 60 |
| Collision | 100 |
| Soft Lock | 150 |
| Steering Centre Force Enabled | On |
| Steering Centre Force | 100 |
Self Aligning Torque is the overall strength of the force feedback.
Wheel Friction and Tire Friction are both Damper forces. In different ways, they both add resistance to the wheel only if you have the Damper force enabled in the Thrustmaster Control Panel. Wheel Friction is a mostly constant force that simply makes the wheel heavier. Tire Friction is mostly felt based on the speed of the car. When the car is still, you will feel the heaviness of the car when you try to turn the wheel. I don't like Damper forces on these lower end wheels, so I turn these off.
Suspension controls the vibrations you feel in the wheel from the road surface.
Collision controls the vibration when you hit a rock or something on the side of the road.
Soft Lock is the force you feel when trying to turn the wheel past the real-world steering angle.
Steering Centre Force is only ever used when you start a race or reset the car to re-center the wheel. It has no effect when you are driving.
Conclusion
Before making these changes, I found the game fun, but often annoyingly hard to control. After applying these settings, I was no longer fighting with the force feedback and I finally had complete control over the car. This makes the game so much more enjoyable to play because you can actually control the car in difficult situations. I highly recommend you try these settings.
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
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Question or Comment?
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Машиной невозможно управлять (играю на клавиатуре). Какие настройки лучше всего выставить, чтобы лучше было управление? (создал новую тему, чтобы лучше было найти этот вопрос, тем кого он тоже мучает)
Лучше руль купить, на клаве можно в НФС или Грид, а Дирт и симуляторы только на руле, иначе одни нервы.
RadeonX1950 в FAQ по Colin McRae: DiRT 2 выкладывал настройки руля, мне помогли.
Чаще на дороге а не в кювете. Ему спасибо. :)
Steering Deadzone – 0%
Steering Saturation – 50%
Steering Linearity – 2
Acceleration Pedal Deadzone – 35%
Acceleration Pedal Saturation – 90%
Brake Pedal Deadzone – 40%
Brake Pedal Saturation – 70%
Игра неплохая, намудрено немножко с настройкой управления, а потому выкладываю некоторые соображения по поводу настроек руля и клавиатуры.
Описание настроек.
1) Мёртвая зона руля.
Указывает угол, при повороте руля на который игра не будет реагировать на этот поворот.
Если можете держать машину на прямой - ставите 0%. Нет - 1,2,3%.
Для геймпада - аналогично.
Для клавиатуры бесполезно.
2) Мертвая зона педали газа.
То же самое, что и для руля. Если при отпущенных педалях машина не газует - ставите 0%.
Для геймпада и клавиатуры - аналогично рулю.
3) Мертвая зона тормоза.
Аналогично. Если при отпущенных педалях у вас НЕ горят тормозные фары - ставите 0%. Лучше на всякий случай поставить 1%.
Для геймпада и клавиатуры - аналогично рулю.
4) Мертвая зона сцепления.
0% или 1-2% если что-то не так.
Для геймпада и клавиатуры - аналогично рулю.
5) Чувствительность руля.
Обычно это называют "линейность", Определяет соответствие угла поворота руля на экране и того, как вы крутите свой собственный руль.
При значении 0% - игра будет медленно поворачивать руль при малых углах и быстро - на больших (нелинейно и более плавное управление). Проще на скорости, но сложнее на резких поворотах - устанете руль крутить.
При значении в 100% - быстре на малых углах и медленнее на больших (нелинейно и более резкое управление). Проще в резких поворотах, но сложнее на скорости - машина более нервная (учитывая уменьшение чувствительности на скорости - см. далее).
При значении в 50% - везде одинаково (линейно). Машина рулит ровно так, как рулите вы.
Для геймпада - от 0 до 50%.
Клавиатура - 0%.
6) Чувствительность педали газа.
Обычно показывает, какой процент хода педали будет использоватся. Здесь - некое подобие линейности у руля.
При 100% - небольшое нажатие на педаль будет давать почти полный газ, при значениях близких к 0% - газ можно дозировать более тонко.
Если играете с включенной помощью АПС (Анти-пробуксовочная система) на Мин или на Мах - можете оставить 50% (поднимать выше не вижу смысла). Если играете без помощи, либо тяжело даются заднеприводные машины - поставьте 0-2%.
Для геймпада советы те же для всех педалей.
Для клавиатуры в любом случае лучше ставить 0%.
7) Чувствительность педали тормоза.
Аналогично педали газа. Если играете с АБС (анти-блокировочная система) - можно оставить стандартные 50%. Если без неё - 0-2%.
8) Чувствительность сцепления.
Аналогично газу и тормозу. Если поставите 0%, на педаль нужно будет нажимать сильнее, если 100% - чуть прикоснуться.
9) Чувствительность руля на скорости.
На самом деле эту настройку следовало назвать Уменьшением чувствительности руля на скорости, так как она показывает как сильно будет уменьшаться чувствительность, а не устанавливает саму чувствительность.
При 0% - чувствительность не изменяется. Рекомендуется только для многооборотных рулей (900 градусов).
Если у вашего руля угол поворота меньше 900 градусов, Чувствительность руля на скорости стоит повысить вплоть до 50-60% для рулей с оборотом 240 и меньше.
Скажем, если вы играете с рулём на 540 градусов, начальным значением будет где-то 20-25%.
Для геймпадов - 100% либо чуть меньше.
Для клавиатуры - 100%.
10) Обратная связь.
Сила, которая будет противодействовать повороту руля. Если руки сильные - 10, если лень напрягаться - меньше.
Для клавиатуры бесполезно.
11) Угол вращения руля.
Угол, при повороте реального руля на который будет достигнуто максимальное значение поворота руля в игре. (У рулей с регулируемым углом поворота всё проще - там можно указать угол в настройках) Обычно стаят 100% - то есть от упора до упора.
Для клавиатуры бесполезно.
12) Обратное переключение.
Меняет местами кнопки переключения передач (левый и правый шифт).
13) Ось камеры Y.
Инвертирует обзор по вертикальной оси.
В итоге.
Для руля (учитывая вышесказанное).
Хардкорные настройки / Максимальный контроль / Настройки при включенных помощниках
Мёртвая зона руля - 0 / 0 / 0
Мёртвая зона газа - 0 / 0 / 0
Мёртвая зона тормоза - 1 / 1 / 1
Мертвая зона сцепления - 1 / 1 / 1
Чувствительность руля - 80-100 / 50 / Около 100
Чувствительность газа - 50 / 0 / 50 или выше
Чувствительность тормоза - 50 / 0 / 50 или выше
Чувствительность сцепления - 0 / 50 / ---
Чувствительность руля на скорости - 0-10 / В зависимости от руля 20-50 / 50 и выше
Обратная связь - 10 / 10 / 10
Угол вращения руля - 100 / 100 / 100
Геймпад / Клавиатура
В Винде идем: Пуск - Панель управления - Клавиатура. В свойствах снижаем задержку и скорость повтора. Скрин.
Мёртвая зона руля - 0 / 0
Мёртвая зона газа - 0 / 0
Мёртвая зона тормоза - 1 / 0
Мертвая зона сцепления - 0 / 0
Чувствительность руля - 0-50 / 0
Чувствительность газа - 0-50 / 0
Чувствительность тормоза - 0-50 / 0
Чувствительность сцепления - 50 / 50
Чувствительность руля на скорости - около 100 / 100
Обратная связь - 10 / ---
Угол вращения руля - 100 / 100
Игра в DiRT Rally 2.0 в VR-шлеме Oculus Rift с рулем Thrustmaster T300RS GT Edition, настройки руля и машин.
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Приветствую всех любителей ралли!
Это мое первое руководство, раньше я такого не писал, но после года игры в DiRT Rally 2.0 у меня появилось что сказать. Ну, и появилось время благодаря праздникам)
Настройки лучше менять последовательно и не все сразу, чтобы понять, как они отражаются на поведении машины и отвечают вашей манере езды. Вообще надо помнить, что это прежде всего игра и в ней четко запрограммировано при каких настройках машины вы получите на той или иной трассе лучшее время, где пролегает наиболее короткий, оптимальный маршрут, как вы должны крутить руль и давить педали для лучшего результата. Это игра, а не реальная гонка, поэтому лучшее или худшее время, можно субъективно не ощутить, если не было очевидных ошибок. Общие рекомендации такие:
В заключении хочется отметить, что можно добиться неплохих результатов в гонках DiRT Rally 2.0 на сравнительно недорогом оборудовании по сравнению с профессиональными симуляционными системами для автогонок. Для неплохого старта достаточно хорошего руля, типа Thrustmaster T300RS, и любого VR-шлема, даже старенького Oculus Rift. Ну, а потом решить для себя, нужна ли более продвинутая система.
Всё что написано выше это моё ИМХО, поэтому переубеждать меня не стоит. Дельные советы, замечания, предложения приветствуются. Содержательная критика тоже)
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